My first summer on Opsimath began in Roscoff, where Peter left her at the very new Bloscon Marina, which opened just a few years back. The immense Porte de Plaisance is in the Bay of Morlaix, and shares access with the channel ferry services out of Roscoff, so it’s easy to get to. From the old Gare de Roscoff (the train station which seems to be closed for repairs), you can take a bus down to the ferry, and the marina is a short 5 minute walk away.
Bloscon is a real full-service deep water marina, with 625 berths (handicapped accessible), full fuelling, 2 chandleries/marine shops, and a handsome new building that houses the marina office, chandlery and shower blocks. The modern architecture features an immense wood deck and pure lines so that it fits snugly into the contour of the bay. It has a green roof planted with native grasses and sedum, which is a great touch. It’s also home to a cool little restaurant called Le Transat.
Inside, Le Transat is small and cozy. But you can also sit out on the enormous deck, with its oversized tables crafted from slices of massive tree trunks. In spite of the huge terrasse out front, it’s a small operation. When we were there, there were probably 12 items on the board (starters, mains and desserts) and a great wine and beer menu. They also had delicious, crusty brown bread from a local baker, served with salty Breton butter. They had my number.
We both ordered cod confitted in olive oil over vegetable spaghetti, and it was fantastic! I’ve been making the recipe all summer and can’t get enough of it. I may have to find a spot on the blog for recipes!
We needed to stock up on groceries for the trip, so I called a taxi to take me to the local Casino supermarket. I had the cab wait for me – an expensive error! I’d have been much better off letting him leave and calling another when I was done.
Casino had a great selection, from fresh fish to loads of lovely fruit and veg, and an admirable selection of craft beers. Among them, the new line of Coref, a traditional Breton brewery, that is now making some really tasty IPA’s, Red and Amber beers . Another local brewery, Kerav’Ale is also turning out some tasty craft beers under the Rosko label. Craft beers have arrived in Brittany, and that is a damn good thing. There also seemed to be a great selection of local craft ciders
The port itself has merit in its extensive facilities and the convenience of its location. But we both agreed, it’s a bit vast and impersonal. Not a place you’d want to dock to stay for pleasure, but a good spot for repairs, or to leave the boat while you spend a few days on land.
*** Tip: There’s an ATM in the Casino, which is right by the ferry building, and this can save you a lot of trouble. Otherwise, the closest one is a 20 minute walk away.
In the old part of Roscoff, visit the Ty-Pierre for a beer, then walk up towards the lovely old church, Notre Dame de Croaz. Do not hesitate to drop in to La Maison Georges Laneicol for their authentic kouignettes. These are miniature versions of the region’s famous kouign-aman cake, rich with salted butter and sticky with caramelized sugar. They have dozens of original flavours. They are absolutely exquisite, and because they’re quite small, you can easily justify buying a half dozen and trying a little bit of everything. Won’t help you fit into your bikini, it’s true, but sailing is hungry work, and you deserve it!