With very little wind, we motored most of the way from Lézardrieux to Guernsey and decided to drop anchor in a place we’d never been, a lovely bay known as Petit Port. It’s protected from northern winds, and has a small beach that can only be accessed by a VERY steep climb up the steps in the photo below, which are set into the rock face. This is not a climb you want to tackle twice in one day, and you won’t find any nearby shops, so it’s definitely advisable to come with what you need already on board.
We did the climb only once, and it lead to the Route de Jerbourg, which we later learned was a strategic road during the 5 year German Occupation of the Island. By the way, if you have not read The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Society, I wholeheartedly encourage you to pick up a copy. It has also just come out as a Netflix production, which I look forward to watching. I’ll talk a bit more about the island history in a later post on lovely St Peter Port.
We made it to the top of the long climb up, and found one of my most very favorite things about Guernsey: People put their garden fruits, vegetables and flowers, plus eggs and homemade jams and jellies, on small carts and stands in front of their homes, with prices, and a jar. Honor system purchasing of the most local produce you could hope for. I wish I had a photo of this one. We took home raspberries, french beans, potatoes and a few other things.
On Jerbourg point, you’ll also find the Hotel de Jerbourg, a pretty chic hotel with a coffee shop and dessert bar, and a rather fabulous looking restaurant called L’Auberge St Martin which has stunning views and a very refined décor.
The small beach at Petit Port is remarkably busy considering the climb required! A lot of people also arrive by sea, on yachts, motorboats (“gin palaces”), SUPs and you name it. One day, we had the huge thrill of seeing a school of very happy dolphins invade the bay. At first we only saw a few, but quickly realized there were at least a dozen, if not more. They were beautiful and obviously delighted to play with the boats which quickly surrounded them. I frown at that a bit, as it seems you should keep your distance, but they didn’t seem to mind!
Down in the galley: This was our first experience trying to juggle with keeping the refrigerator cool with batteries that just seemed to continually discharge. In spite of having our Rutland 12OO wind turbine, we just couldn’t keep the batteries alive,and had to shut everything off. We couldn’t even run the mast light at night. I have a suspicion that the batteries might need replacing, but we decided we’d try to make it work for this summer.
We ran out of cooking gas on Day 1, after having changed the bottle a few days prior in Lézardrieux, so I started keeping track of oven hours. I cook a lot, and need a good idea of how much time I have on one tank. And by Day 2, we were down 1 tank of water. In terms of liveability for a transatlantic crossing, we still hve a few things learn about managing our resources!
On our last day there, we went over to Fermain Bay, and had a quick drink at the cute (and expensive) restaurant right above the beach. Then we got back to the dinghy, only to find that the outboard motor was dry! Peter had serious doubts about my ability to row, but finally, we made it back to Opsimath safe and sound!