To Tréguier and the Jaudy from Lézardrieux via la passe de la Gaine

Treguier Port.jpg

I’ve just joined Peter in Treguier, making the four and a half hour drive down from Paris yesterday. I regret not having taken a photo of the port from the Canada bridge, just as you enter town. It’s really a surprise to see this unexpected and very cute little port as you get your first look at the Jaudy RIver: a few pontoons at the foot of this charming old village make a very serviceable porte de plaisance.

Peter is on a mission to find a place to winter opsimath, and we’d heard much about Treguier. At under 600€ for a 5 month period (roughly September to April, but they seem pretty flexible) including berth, electricity, water and (not great) shower facilities, it’s a pretty sweet deal. The currents can apparently be an issue, but we’ve put it on the short list.

Treguier is a “village de caractère” and the capital of the Trégor region of Brittany. There are lot of restaurants accessible on foot. We tried out Le Tablier for pizza, but had mixed feelings (my review here). We also had a delicious crepe dinner at La Dinette, which we both loved. Both restaurants are within a 5 minute walk of the port, as are numerous other establishments. You wont go hungry here, even on Sundays.

We enjoyed tasting the local beer from Philomène Craft Brewery, located on the river in Treguier. We had the Blond and the Rousse, and I love that it’s widely available, both in bottles and on tap in a lot of the local pubs and bars. The Rousse (red beer) was cloudy when served on tap, which I kind of like: it adds to the authenticity! It’s not cheap, but really good beer never is…

Philomène, yummy local craft brew from Tréguier
Les Héaux de Bréhat from the Passe de la Gaine

On his way here from Lézardrieux, which is only a stone’s throw away by land, Peter took a shortcut called La Passe de la Gaine, which cuts very close to the headlands on the very rocky shoreline. It’s considered pretty daring, so I guess he just had to give it a try! By high tide and with no wind, he found it was a piece of cake.

Motoring up the Jaudy river to Tréguier.

Tréguier is also home to Coper Marine ship chandlers, which has been described as the most beautiful ship chandler in Europe, and it is beautiful.. The original locale in local stone has been added onto with a modern wooden façade. One side houses clothing, while the older part of the building has everything you need for your boat, hanging from the rafters. Check out the photos below, they give you an idea of the huge selection and the original presentation.

We met a really fun couple from Summerset while in the port, Phil and Romany Harry. We went out with them to Cafe Ar Vag in St. Gonéry (funny combination of words there, innit?) to listen to an excellent live jazz concert and have a little supper. While the food was nothing to write home about, the service was friendly and indulgent, and a good time was had by all!

Phil and Romany had a serious time constraint and had to head back to the UK the next day to get back to work. They left in seriously adverse weather conditions at around midnight. With no AIS, poor visibility and rough seas, Peter and I were pretty worried about them. A text last night let us know that they’d reached home safely; very shaken, but back in time to go to work today! They took a real risk, and we’re very glad they are safe and sound!

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